A Village Where Tradition Lives On
Neatly arranged black-tiled roofs welcome visitors with a sense of tranquility. Beyond the low walls, a beam of sunlight settles on the wooden veranda, as if finding its rightful place. Walking through the alleyways, each house carries a familiar yet distinct warmth, filling the courtyards with nostalgia.
Across Korea, hanok villages have formed over time, but in urban areas, they have become increasingly rare. The rapid pace of urban development has made it difficult for these traditional houses to survive. However, some hanok villages have been preserved, standing as symbols of Korean heritage. Among them, Jeonju Hanok Village is the largest and most famous, recognized as a cultural treasure of Korea. But what has allowed this village to endure for centuries? To uncover the answer, I made my way to Jeonju, the heart of traditional Korean culture.
A City Steeped in History
Arriving in Jeonju is an experience in itself. If you take the train, you will notice that Jeonju Station is designed in hanok style. If you drive, the tollgate leading into the city features an elegant tiled roof, signaling that you are entering a city proud of its heritage. Jeonju has long been known as a center of refined culture. During the Joseon Dynasty, it was home to Jeolla Provincial Office, making it a hub for government affairs, fine cuisine, and artistic excellence. This cultural depth has led to the development of numerous festivals celebrating traditional paper-making (hanji), bibimbap, and even film.
The Origin of Jeonju’s Name
The name “Jeonju” carries deep meaning. The Korean word “온 (on)” translates to “whole, pure, and harmonious.” In Baekje, the city was called “Wansan” (완산) using the character “完” (wan), meaning complete. Later, during the Unified Silla period, King Gyeongdeok changed it to “Jeonju” (전주), incorporating the character “全” (jeon), which also means wholeness. The esteemed Goryeo scholar Yi Gyu-bo described Jeonju as a city where “people prosper, houses stand in great numbers, and the scholars act with wisdom and restraint.” It is clear that Jeonju’s history aligns perfectly with the meaning of “온”—a place of completeness and harmony.
A Hanok Village Built on Heritage and Resistance
To fully appreciate Jeonju Hanok Village, head to Pungnam-dong, just east of Pungnam Gate. The village holds deep historical significance, as it was established during the Japanese occupation of Korea. At the time, Japanese settlers occupied the western side of Pungnam Gate, transforming it into a hub of commerce. In response, Koreans gathered in the east, building a hanok community as an act of cultural resistance. The narrow alleys and dense arrangement of hanok houses symbolize the determination of the people to preserve their heritage.
Seventy years ago, a stark contrast could be seen from Pungnam Gate—the west dominated by Japanese-style structures, and the east filled with traditional hanok homes. This history makes Jeonju Hanok Village not just a place of beauty, but also a monument to cultural perseverance.
Exploring the Village from Omokdae
A great starting point for exploring Jeonju Hanok Village is Omokdae, a scenic hill offering breathtaking views of the city. Before heading up, stop by the nearby tourist information center to pick up a map and ask any questions. The village is well-marked with signs, making it easy to navigate with just a map.
Omokdae is a small hill that takes about 10 minutes to climb. It holds historical significance as the place where General Yi Seong-gye, the founder of the Joseon Dynasty, celebrated his victory against the Japanese forces at Hwangsan Battle. In recognition of this, King Gojong later inscribed a memorial stone here, marking it as a place of royal history.
A View of Jeonju from Above
From the wooden deck at Omokdae, you can see a panoramic view of Jeonju. The flat plains and gentle mountain ranges stretch into the distance, while modern buildings rise just beyond the sea of traditional tiled roofs. Jeonju is uniquely positioned along the Noryeong Mountain Range, which naturally encircles the city, creating a perfect living environment with a river, fertile land, and a pleasant climate.
Among the rooftops, you will also notice historic landmarks like Pungnam Gate, Jeonju Hyanggyo (Confucian School), and Gyeonggijeon Shrine, adding to the charm of this cultural city. Jeonju’s residents have worked tirelessly to preserve these treasures, ensuring that traditional structures remain an integral part of the city.
A Walk Through the Hanok Village
Jeonju Hanok Village is home to over 800 hanok houses, though many are now used as guesthouses, restaurants, cafes, and cultural spaces. While the number of actual residents has declined, the warmth of the past still lingers in the narrow alleys and small courtyards. Walking through the village, it’s easy to imagine the community spirit of the past, where neighbors greeted each other over low stone walls.
Each alley has a distinct personality—some feel grand and elegant, while others are filled with colorful flower pots and everyday charm. For those who grew up in Korea, these alleys evoke a nostalgic sense of home, bringing back memories of childhood streets long gone.
How to Get to Jeonju Hanok Village from Incheon Airport
By KTX Train (Fastest & Most Comfortable Option)
Take the Airport Railroad Express (AREX) to Seoul Station. (~50 minutes, ₩4,150)
Board the KTX train from Seoul Station to Jeonju Station. (~1 hour 40 minutes, ₩34,000)
Take Bus #79 or a taxi from Jeonju Station to Hanok Village. (~20 minutes, ₩6,000 by taxi)
Total Travel Time: Around 2 hours 50 minutes
Total Cost: ₩40,000 (~$30 USD)
By Express Bus (Budget-Friendly Option)
Take the Airport Limousine Bus to Central City Terminal (Seoul Express Bus Terminal). (~1 hour, ₩17,000)
Board an express bus from Seoul to Jeonju Express Bus Terminal. (~2 hours 40 minutes, ₩15,000)
Take a bus or taxi to Hanok Village (~10-15 minutes, ₩6,000).
Total Travel Time: Around 4 hours 30 minutes
Total Cost: ₩38,000 (~$28 USD)
A Village That Stands the Test of Time
As the sun sets over Jeonju, I return to Omokdae one last time. Looking out over the hanok rooftops, I reflect on the journey through this remarkable village. This is not just a tourist attraction—it is a living testament to Korea’s cultural identity.
Jeonju Hanok Village is a place where history breathes, where tradition thrives, and where visitors are reminded that some things are worth preserving. With its scenic beauty, rich history, and warm atmosphere, it is no wonder that travelers return here again and again.